Tag: travel

the importance of being Iceland

It feels like everyone’s been (quietly) going to Iceland. Maybe we’re tired of the rage and confusion and polemics. All the heartbreak and controversy.

of course there are rainbows and waterfalls in iceland

Maybe we just want a place that feels neutral, a place that turns off the street lamps so that you can see the northern lights, a place that looks like we’ve arrived on another planet and yet in some ways we know exactly what to expect.

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the august earthquakes

The first week of August hangs at the very top of summer, the top of the live-long year, like the highest seat of a Ferris wheel when it pauses in its turning. The weeks that come before are only a climb from balmy spring, and those that follow a drop to the chill of autumn, but the first week of August is motionless, and hot. It is curiously silent, too, with blank white dawns and glaring noons, and sunsets smeared with too much color. Often at night there is lightning, but it quivers all alone. There is no thunder, no relieving rain. These are strange and breathless days, the dog days, when people are led to do things they are sure to be sorry for after.

— Tuck Everlasting

I’ve got a
lot of good
ideas but not
one that
will get me
through
August.

— Eileen Myles

DSC00354.JPG

J. has been posting about August for weeks, and I’m here still going around in circles too. Looking out from the windows at the faults splitting the earth in front of me, riding it out. What is it about this month?

It’s incredible, every single book I pick up by accident discusses at length the following topics: volcanoes, earthquakes, Iceland, love, grief, and/or being alone. (see: The Faraway Nearby, The Importance of Being Iceland, Falling Off The Map, Becoming Wise). So much land to cover, is it thrilling? Exhausting? Both? For both you who keeps reading and for me too. Like Hamilton, I’m definitely writing like I’m running out of time. I wake up before dawn, filled with something inarticulate, that hangover feeling you get after the loss of love.

Maggie Nelson’s Bluets is a whole book of her attempt at writing her way out of it: “Nelson hopes that writing about the bluets will “empty me further of them, so that I might become a better vessel for new blue things.”

And me, over the past three weeks I’ve written maybe over 50 essays about you, Iceland, love, grief, earthquakes, volcanoes, etc.; so I might as well keep on towards closing out our book before the month runs out. I always joked that if you don’t want to be written about, don’t date a writer. And I wasn’t lying when I said I’d write my way out of this.

Onwards, then:

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thoughts on hiking

walking on the lake at sundown-00775

reprise (see notes on traveling with a backpack from 2013 — all of which still held true this time, too!)

thoughts on hiking/backpacking, unedited.

  1. are you a little bit afraid of what lies ahead? good, that means you’re doing the work you need to do.
  2. gorge yourself on all the online personal accounts of what it’s like to hike a trail. then forget it all, because it will be different for you.
  3. have hope for the future. anticipate it. but don’t let it stop you from enjoying the present.
  4. learn to improvise.
  5. go at your own pace if possible. this is not a competition.
  6. your body will be different as you get older. listen to it, it’s ok if walking takes longer. be kind to yourself.
  7. rocks are very useful for holding tent stakes down.
  8. laugh.
  9. always bring a snack. practice making it last longer. save some for the uphill climbs.
  10. i’ve never had short hair while completing a thru-trail hike until now, and it is AWESOME. no dreads this time, +++
  11. perform small rituals to grow as a person. here, while out of the way of connectivity with the world, take the time to connect with yourself.
  12. hiking to lose weight never works because afterward all you want is cookies and cake and you also feel like “f*ck it, I deserve it”
  13. meet other travelers. talk to them. learn things about the land, the country, the animals (or lack thereof). ask questions.
  14. bring a notebook. write your thoughts down.
  15. read at night. it feels like a luxury.
  16. don’t be too proud to ask for help.
  17. if you can’t sleep, it’s still pretty amazing to walk outside at 3am and see nothing but land and sky and remaining (or impending) light.
  18. don’t drink too much water before bed because it might be freezing outside and you’ll have to suffer the “do i get out of my sleeping bag or hold it?” dilemma.
  19. note to self: a fanny pack would be really awesome next time.
  20. pack less than you want to. but recognize the small luxuries that will be worth their weight.
  21. you will not feel clean. and that’s ok.
  22. bring really good socks of different colors. even when dusty, they will make you happy. and you’ll be able to tell them apart!
  23. don’t worry, everyone else’s socks smell just like yours do.
  24. don’t be anxious, be prepared.
  25. wear your f-in’ sunscreen!
  26. keep your receipts.
  27. figure out the humidity so you know how quickly (or slowly) your stuff will dry.
  28. indulge when it’s in front of you. cake is cake. you quickly learn the value of cake when it’s offered to you in the middle of nowhere.
  29. ziploc bags are super-duper handy.
  30. go with someone you love talking to, but with whom you can also be silent comfortably.
  31. … preferably also someone who will belt out Disney songs with you on the last stretch!
  32. have a reward waiting for you. a meal, a song, dessert, puffins, cartwheels, whatever floats your boat.
  33. put down your backpack when you arrive at camp. go for a walk, and marvel at how light you feel.
  34. just when you think the last landscape *had* to be the MOST-BEAUTIFUL-and-best-thing-on-this-earth and there is no way anything can top it — a new one comes into view and takes your breath away. meaning, it will all be ok. leave your past behind you. take a photo. remember it, carry it with you because you are human and to be human means you must carry it. but go forward, knowing that the next turn will bring you joy and be every bit as beautiful in a different way.