Category: food

authentic tacos 🌮 

The idea that authenticity is a fixed and rigid thing is absurd for a food culture that has gone through as much historic change and reinvention as Mexican gastronomy.

To declare that the only good Mexican food is “authentic” Mexican food also assumes that the cuisine has ceased evolving. Like so many international cuisines, Mexican food has thrived as it has adapted, and it isn’t done doing that.

― from “Tacos: Recipes and Provocations” by Alex Stupak and Jordana Rothman

“Cucumber becomes me. I become cucumber.”

Jeong Kwan is a Buddhist nun living in Seoul who happens to also be revered for her cooking. She’s been praised by noted chefs like Eric Ripert of Le New York City’s Le Bernadin. Her vegan cuisine is unexpectedly “transcendent” due to the intimate relationship she has with the earth that has produced the ingredients. T explores her cooking in this article.

jeong kwan

Jeong Kwan, photo credit T magazine

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But even if you can talk about food for hours, there comes a point when you need to make contact with it.

I love going to farmers’ markets and farms to see and touch the food we eat. It’s easy to constantly dine at restaurants in this modern world and not know what eggplants or brussels sprouts look like “in the wild.”

Kwan believes that the ultimate cooking — the cooking that is best for our bodies and most delicious on our palates — comes from this intimate connection with fruits and vegetables, herbs and beans, mushrooms and grains. In her mind, there should be no distance between a cook and her ingredients. “That is how I make the best use of a cucumber,’’ she explains through a translator. “Cucumber becomes me. I become cucumber. Because I grow them personally, and I have poured in my energy.” She sees rain and sunshine, soil and seeds, as her brigade de cuisine. She sums it up with a statement that is as radically simple as it is endlessly complex: “Let nature take care of it.”

The current world we live in also allows us to indulge in constant instant gratification. We can’t help but develop an insatiable need for change, and new tools and technologies help us to experience things that were previously unattainable. Constant change is at our fingertips, and we can have it immediately. In an increasingly global and technologically-connected world, we can order any kind of food we want and have it arrive on our doorstep within the hour. We can engineer ingredients so that they are available almost anywhere, year round.

Kwan’s cooking, however, exemplifies the long game. Her secret weapons are the ingredients that have gained character and taste over almost unthinkable lengths of time. Her garden has no fence, and she uses what has grown there in harmony with any animals that may have had more need for the fruits of her labor. There is reward in slow motion, in letting something develop for years rather than days, in patience, in balance with the surrounding natural world.

‘‘That’s why it’s not pretty,’’ she says. If a wild boar makes off with a pumpkin, well, so be it — the garden has no fence around it, and it seems to blur into the surrounding forest in a way that suggests the playground remains open to beasts of all types.

In line with Hemingway’s thought that the “good unpublished poem” is necessary in the world, Kwan cooks far from the eye of the Michelin Guide or James Beard awards, and for very few.  But “positive energy has a habit of finding its way out into the wider world.”

The paradox is that she [cooks] for such a limited audience. There are only two other nuns meditating alongside her at the Chunjinam hermitage. They cook together; sometimes Kwan cooks for the monks, or for visitors.

And this seems like the most Zen idea of all: that one of the world’s greatest chefs can often be found mapping out her meals in silence and solitude, plucking mint leaves in a garden that feels far, far away from anything resembling preening egos and gastronomic luxury. But she seems to know that positive energy has a habit of finding its way out into the wider world. One day, after we have toured the temple, she leads me down to a small bridge that crosses over a creek. We stand on the bridge and she touches her hand to her ear. She wants me to listen. So we listen: She and I simply stand there by the water for a couple of minutes, listening to the sound of the current. Then she smiles — it really is like a ray of light, this smile — and points to the creek and utters a single word in English, as she looks into my eyes.

‘‘Orchestra,’’ she says.

hot pot cures all. and be radishing.

Notes from the weekend:
– When in doubt about how to get fruit when there are no low-hanging ones in sight, climb the damn tree.
– Say yes to pie.
– Sometimes softness can lead to strength.
– Write down your dreams right when you wake up.
– Be brave enough to face into the wind and run on.
– Accidentally walked into a learn-how-to-sexy-dance class. Didn’t learn anything new. What does that mean?
– Choose the one who laughs loudly and with heart.
– What you learn after you think you know it all will probably be the most important thing in life.
– Hot pot cures all winter woes. And when in doubt about how to impress the girl, get the better fish balls with roe inside. And open a Cabernet.
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mezcal reunion & a dose of whimsy

Hello, fall!

Today, a humid daytime filled with a sudden but explicable melancholy, then a lecture from a friend about why I should show my melancholy side more often to people who don’t know me as well.

Then, ceviche with avocado.

Then, first day reunited. We have an on-again-off-again relationship.

I mean, with the mezcal margaritas he made, that is.



I skipped the pictures of us using a big stick to mash chickpeas in a big pot between our legs while sitting barelegged on the ground because the angle made it look… unsuitable for publishing, but it was rather appropriate for my first day back for other things.

I mean, for making hummus, that is. And eating way too much of it.

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A dose of whimsy, to save you from painful midnight double entendres!

    • Obsessively detailed map of American literature’s most epic road trips(!!)
    • Favorite snacks of favorite writers, illustrated
    • Interactive timeline of why time seems to pass faster as we age
    • “For sometimes you can’t help but crave some ruin in what you love.” ― Chang-Rae Lee
    • Mikio Hasui talks about his photography in an interview with FvF.

      Words, they’re difficult. I’m not a good writer. When I write, I feel like my thoughts get whittled down, smaller and smaller. With a photograph that I think is beautiful, eight out of ten people will also think it’s beautiful. The other two people may think it’s sad, and that’s okay by me. With words, beautiful is beautiful. You don’t read the word ‘beautiful’ as ‘sad’. The reaction people have to my photos can be unexpected, and I like that.

      And:

      When I went to shoot these images, it just happened to be foggy. I was thinking, I can’t shoot today. I couldn’t see anything, so I waited a bit for the fog to clear. When the fog lifted for one moment, I saw the mountain, covered with trees in bright autumnal colors. But I was thinking that if the fog wasn’t there, and it was just a mountain covered in autumnal leaves, the experience and shot would’ve been pretty boring. It was beautiful because it was hidden, and because it was only revealed for that one moment, just that one part of the mountain.

      I felt like it was a metaphor for my life. I’m living in a fog. Even though I’m facing forward, I’m not sure which direction that is. I don’t belong to or work at a company, and I live life day by day. Sometimes I’m like, is this all right? Is this okay? But that’s the kind of thing everyone thinks about. I wonder what’s ahead. Work, marriage, kids – everyone has those questions. But when you’re inside the fog, when everything is foggy, you can’t see (what’s ahead of you). When that fog lifts and you can see even a bit of something, you’ve got to believe in what you just saw, right? When the fog lifts, there’s that mountain covered in trees with beautiful leaves and colors – you can’t see it right now, but it’s there. You’ve got to believe in that.

  • Finally, I leave you with the best birthday party invitation footer (complete with three Fresh Prince dancing GIFs) from an invitation I received today:she don't like to dance tho

Yep. My friends are the best. Happy September!

Currently sleepless, and not to dog on your hot dog, man, but I still can’t believe the incredible people that surround me in this life.

Our neighbors were grilling their frozen grey-hued meat patties and hot dogs while asking him, “Are you a chef?!” He grinned, looked at what they were “cooking,” and lied. “Well, of course I am.”

Meanwhile, I clamber atop countertops to document.

Menu today.

Taco bar:
– fresh grilled squid
– duck hearts
– pollock
– mackerel
– steak
– avocado drizzled in olive oil
– grilled zucchini
– red cabbage
– homemade pico de gallo
– Cholula and Tajin (what’s up, Mexico!)

Extras:
– grilled onions
– mango salsa
– grilled Romaine hearts with ricotta, peas, and mint
– esquites/elote (corn on the cob with mayo, cotija, Tajin, and whatever other spicy shit I had in reach)
– copious amounts of great wine
– the sunset, baby. the skyline. and you.